The Glazing Process

a Step by step guide TO GLAZING AT THE ASP

Before you start

Before you begin glazing there are a few things you need to think about ….

Which glaze should I use?

  • Make sure you are using the right glaze for you clay - mid-fire or high-fire.

  • Look at the test tile boards and see what works or read about them on our high-fire and mid-fire glaze pages.

  • If you’re not sure how it will turn out try making test tiles - they are easy to make using our extruder (just ask at the office) and free to fire at the ASP.

Should I layer or decorate?

  • if you are new to glazing start simple and learn how each glaze behaves by just using one colour.

  • Think about the form of your pot - does it need decoration? if so where will it go and how will it look on the pot?

  • If you are going to layer glazes make sure they will work together and won’t run down the outside of the pot.

  • Have a plan and make sure you have everything you need.


How am I going to approach it?

Miming the process before you start can be helpful - make sure there is enough glaze in the bucket for dipping and figure out how you are going to hold the pot and where you are going to put it down afterwards.



The Glazing Process


1. SAND (optional)

A light sanding of the bisqued piece can smooth out rough patches. Blow dust off with the compressor or wipe with a damp sponge afterwards to avoid pitting and pinholes on your fired pot.


2. WAX (optional but usually saves time)

Waxing the bottom of your pot to resist the glaze can be a useful time-saver.

Use hot wax – the wax should be hot enough to raise some light smoke and flow easily.

Best done on the banding wheel for really accurate results.

Any wax spill can be scraped off or the pot can be re-biscuited for best results.

Always make sure the extractor fan is on when using the wax booth.


3. STIR THE GLAZE

Stirring the glaze is a vital step and should be done thoroughly and regularly (every couple of minutes). The particles in the glaze are insoluble (like sand) and will always sink leaving just water at the top. The first stir is best done by hand right to the bottom of the bucket – after that a stick or stirrer is okay.

If the glaze is solid at the bottom you just have to spend time getting it moving.

Glaze thickness - If you are in doubt about the thickness of the glaze or the lumpiness talk to a tutor or staff member - please do not thin the glaze in the bucket.


4. APPLY THE GLAZE


DIPPING

Dipping is a quick and simple way to get solid coverage. You can use tongs or hold the pot in your hand for dipping - just a quick in and out – no more than the time it takes to say “Crikey that’s cold”.

Hold pot upside down until glaze has stopped running off and use a sponge to catch last drips. Don’t shake the pot!!

Remember to stir the glaze often or you will get an uneven coat.

Do not put the pot back in to cover a small blemish – this is the same as double dipping (see No 7) and glaze can run - you can touch it up with a brush or finger. 


POURING

Pouring glaze into the inside of a pots is a good technique if you are spraying the outside or want a different colour inside the pot. Simply pour the glaze from a jug right to the brim of your pot and tip it straight back into the bucket.

Move quickly - this method allows the glaze to rest on the surface of the pot for the duration of the pour so it will come out thick if you pour slowly.

For thin pots, insides should be done first and the pot left to dry (for 24 hours if possible) before glazing the outside.

Glaze can also be poured over the outside of the pot if it is suspended over the bucket.


SPRAYING

It’s hard to spray inside pots, so pour the glaze on the insides first

Spraying is an essential technique for some of our glazes notably Shino and Pale Blue - it is a good way to get a nice thin even layer of glaze - spray on small amounts at a time and let the glaze dry in between coats or the glaze will pool and drip.

When using the spray booth make sure the extractor fan is on and you are wearing a dust mask. When you are finished, spray water through the gun and also put your finger over the end of the nozzle to clear out the tubes and spray or wipe down the booth with water.


5. TOUCH UP

To fill any marks where you have held the pot a light dab of glaze off the end of your downward pointed finger or a brush will do.

Drips and pinholes are best dealt with once the glaze has dried completely and can be gently scraped or rubbed smooth. Rubbing over a pinhole will push the powdered glaze into hole but you need a very light touch!


6. DECORATE

At this point you can add cold/hot wax decoration if you are layering, or on-glaze stains


7. SECOND LAYER

Our glazes are stable if dipped quickly and are applied in a single coat. If they are double dipped they can run or crawl. Some do work well together though - you can find out more on our high-fire and mid-fire glaze pages.

Never double dip below halfway on the outside of you pot - if it runs it will stick to the kiln shelf!


8. WIPE THE BASE

Last thing to do – wipe the base with a damp sponge or they will stick to the kiln shelf. At the ASP we won’t fire pots that haven’t been cleaned underneath.


9. CLEAN UP

Remember the studio is a shared space so please leave it clean and tidy - put things back where they belong, turn off any equipment and wipe down surfaces to help minimize dust.


10. POTS TO KILN

Glazed pots go to the kiln shed and should be placed on the racks marked ‘MID-FIRE’ or ‘HIGH-FIRE’ - make sure you put them onto the right shelves!